I have always wanted to go to Gonarezhou, Zimbabwe’s largest National Park and one of the least visited. It’s in the south-eastern corner of Zimbabwe, borders Mozambique, and has suffered over the years from the bush war, poaching and general neglect. It is part of the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier National Park and forms one of the largest conservation areas in Africa, now managed in partnership with the Frankfurt Zoological Society – and what a difference that makes to the upkeep and efficiency: clean loos at picnic sites, protected baobabs, and strictly no off-roading! Every move we make has to be reported in by our guide.

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