When old friends Rob and Rachel suggested we join them in Cascais, scene of several previous short breaks for Rob and Ross to run the Lisbon half marathon, of course we jump at the chance. And it so happens to coincide with my birthday.

We spend the first three days of our holiday in the Albatroz hotel, winter room rates welcome as its quite a joint, perched on a cliff overlooking the bay. It’s so warm when we arrive (24 C) that we both rush out to buy swimsuits and shorts and shirts. Far too cold to swim of course but nice to bask in the sun on the loungers and read a book.

Ross in his new shorts and shirt!

It’s a social whirl, first night dinner with Singapore friends, Arun and Arin who have moved here; second evening the birthday celebration with brother Sasha and his partner Mel; third night a quiet night in with Rob and Rachel.

On my birthday we visit the amazing Paula Rego museum where there is a spell-binding show, Good Little Girls, referencing the books of the Countess Segur, which fascinated Paula from an early age (we met her a couple of times in London at Art First) and also commissions illustrating the works the poet Adila Lopes: ‘where evils practised without being malevolent…evil is the other side of good things.’ Mainly lithographs, etchings, drawings and prints, the show is about good girls doing bad things…very dark as you will see below.

There is an anarchic series of lithographs on Jane Eyre, highlighting the suffering, determination and independent character of Jane and where, in the final work atthe end of the series, Rego reinterprets a reluctance to comply with a happy ending (top left). To the right is her depiction of mad Bertha. There are some etchings based on the Pendle Witches poems by Blake Morrison, also establishing the powerful relationship between women and nature. To end, some more joyous colour images including one of a hula hooper which reminded me of Louise.

A friend has recommended the Mar do Inferno restaurant where we have a delicious fish lunch overlooking the fine limestone scenery. Very local, few tourists.

No Cascais visit is complete without going to see Sasha’s surf school (Moana Surf) at Guincho beach. It’s sunny and windy, but that doesn’t stop us having some good old deep-fried seafood with Mel and Milo! I can’t believe that people are surfing in November…even if the sun is shining the Atlantic is cold! On the way back Sasha drives us past Ronaldo’s $30m mansion

We trundle off to Lisbon in the little train that hugs the coastline. We are meeting cousins Diego and Christine there, but not before we have another superb lunch in Ultimo Porto, a wire-enclosed shack with BBQ, set in between the containers which are being shunted around as we eat. We reach it via a swing bridge…

Mel has given us good restaurant recommendations near our hotel, York House, an old convent. Rather dark and austere, but clean rooms and a charming courtyard, where a bride and groom are taking pre-wedding photos, his shoes on display, outfits hanging up and finally the bride holding her dress. Very odd…

The highlight of Lisbon is the Calouste Gulbenkian museum. The weather has turned as we walk through the damp gardens having navigated the Lisbon bus system. I had no idea what to expect. Gulbenkian was an Armenian oil trader who managed to make mega deals in the Middle East with European and American oil companies, earning himself the nickname Mr Five Percent. With his great fortune he was able to cherry pick some of the most beautiful and rare antiquities and artworks in the world, ranging from Mesopotamia, ancient Egypt, Chinese porcelain, through to the Persian and Islamic eras – carpets and fragile decorated glassware, the Mamelukes, European rare illuminated manuscripts, the elaborate furniture of the Sun King and his descendants, finishing with a flourish of paintings – Gainsborough, a room full of Guardis, old Masters such as Rembrandt, and finally Impressionists, Manet, Renoir, Monet) Lalique and the pre-Raphaelites. Phew! All exquisite in their respective ways – though I find the French furniture completely over the top.

Egyptian era – cats and images of Horus; the barge she sat in like a burnished throne…

Tiny Roman carved gemstones – absolutely exquisite in their detail

Left to right Persian (13th and 14th century) and right Iznik Turkish ceramic (15th century) Mameluk glass vase (bottom left), early 14th century; Persian ceremonial jackets

A Dutch still life; the Impresiosnists – Manet, Monet and Renoir.

Of course all that work (me pushing Christine around in a wheelchair as she has a stress fracture) requires a good lunch, washed down with copious amount of local wine. We find a wonderful restaurant the Maritimo do Restelo in the Belem area on google, again only locals. I am thrilled to find cuttle fish on the menu (though the conversion into a Goth wasn’t what I was expecting) and Ross and Diego have a traditional fish and rice stews.

On our final full day we take a cab up to the Miradour de Sao Pedro do Alcantara before walking down hill to Chiado, taking in the Time Out covered market, an amazingly ornate church, a Liverpool-themed restaurant – and another lunch! This time just below our hotel, Orla Marisquiera. To my relief I am able to have a simple ceviche – no Burger Boss Klopp for me!

After C & D leave, Ross and I wander up the road to try and find a bar – the first one we come across, Insaciavel, has friendly staff who allow you to try three wines before you order. It’s warm enough to sit out and I have final white port, with pratinhos, Portuguese tapas. We are rather horrified by a loud and drunk group of English women, causing raised eyebrows from our neighbours, a group of girls who turn out to be Portuguese, Brazilian and Turkish (all studying accounting). We are soon having exuberant conversations with them, and buying them drinks.

Then we meet our other neighbours, all young Spaniards working for Santander in Lisbon. Both groups love living here, but say it’s not as cheap as they had thought it would be. We found that by sticking to local restaurants and bars it wasn’t as expansive as elsewhere in Europe.

All in all a great few days. We should go more often!