vickygoestravelling

my journey to health and well being via exotic destinations


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in which we make plans…

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My swimming pool

Where there is a will there’s a way…Wednesday found us down the Indian High Commission, efficient queuing system with numbers, but unfortunately no-one in the offices! And lots of people waiting patiently in chairs. Beginning to get grumpy at this stage: ‘I told you so’. Officials arrive and the numbers click through quickly as all these people are waiting for something else. So only one person in front of us! Long story short, ‘impossible’ to get business visa if you are non-resident and no work permit…have to get from London. But wait a minute…you live in Switzerland, not London? Ah, so you haven’t been in London for at least two months? No of course not, we came straight here! Then, under these special circumstances we can grant you a tourist visa, both of you…Phew! we will pick them up next Thursday, and we were able to take our passports away with us so that we can travel this weekend. I love India – but reading Dalrymple’s The Age of Kali gives a completely different perspective.

Yes, because travelling is what we are here for! This weekend we will visit Malaka (Molucca), 4 hours by bus into Malaysia, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Then we leave for Bangalore on 25 March; quick turnaround in Singers, before we go off to Djakarta the following week. Then there’s a break for about a month (during which we can get our Indian visas sorted for Hyderabad in May) and then a flurry of India, Malaysia and Taiwan. Haven’t got as far as June yet!

On the bucket list is: Krabi, Langkawi, Bintan (1 hour by ferry in Indonesia), Bangkok where I have a friend…and who knows? Wherever else the low cost flights can get us for the weekend!

Pleased to report I swim 1km daily taking 35 mins, then settle down to reading Ma’s letters. We are now in Alexandria, 1942, having a great time – dances, swims, sailing, oh and a few watches and work in-between. She always said it was the best time of her life, and she felt slightly guilty about it. It is fascinating stuff and I can hear her voice as I read her words…amazing how character does not change.

ImageMost nights I knock up a delicious meal as well. This week I made a kind of laksa with chicken, coconut and kow kee chye, local green veg not unlike spinach but VERY GOOD FOR YOU; last night a Burmese pork curry with Indian okra and pineapple chili salsa. No bought-in pastes allowed. The lime squeezer you have all been so rude about is being used at least three times a day – for morning papaya, Vietnamese-style salad dressing at lunch and in the evening for the stir fries. So there! Tonight we are going out with Mark and Lucie Greaves, and Tubby Shenfield. Light blues out in force!

ImagePleased to report that I also spoke to someone other than Ross this week…a nice woman called Louise (is this a sign?) who has been living here since before Christmas. I am now armed with topical tips and will sally forth next week on some expeditions in search of the under-$2 Japanese gadget store amongst other things….


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in which I shop for essential items

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View from my kitchen

Day 5: now worked out what I am missing; no, essential items are not replica bags and designer clothes (all of which would be nice but not available here – they are all the real thing and cost zillions).

After 3 days of getting into the new routine: swim 1 km in 35 mins, read my book for an hour, and then for the rest of the day read through mum’s letters in chronological order – now up to 1942 and she’s just been commissioned and  is on a boat but all the interesting bits have been cut out by the censor! – decided to go on first major expedition ON MY OWN.

This is quite easy in truth – Great World Serviced Apartments has nifty FREE shuttle bus that goes to Orchard Road, Mecca of shopping, every 30 mins, and returns in a loop. It deposits me right outside Tang’s Department store (est’d 1932) where the kitchen equipment is in the basement.

Yes, dear reader, I am ashamed to say that this blog risks becoming rather food-oriented (fellow blogger Janet will be impressed my my devotion to housewifely duties, even in Singapore, while she struggles in civilised France to do the same…).

ImageEssential items for a foodie like me boil down to: wok (amazingly flat did not have one); single Bodum cafetière; small egg-size milk saucepan; Kenwood automatic chopper for making own fresh red and green Thai curry sauces and chopping coconut for Keralan curries (these require chopped flesh, not just milk); lime squeezer; garlic press; and four mugs – again only two terrible thick ones and I must have bone china for my tea. Wonderful Tangs had most of these on offer, so I felt a very good housewife indeed. Decided not to get the cute godlfish dinner service though…

IMG_1023Virtue not rewarded as greeted by the 4pm sharp monsoon downpour with thunder and lightening and got wet waiting for the bus. Wah! (new expression which makes me sound quite acclimatised, don’t you think?).

Food highlights have been delicious Thai green prawn curry cooked by me; and last night’s trip to Spize, 6 pm to 6 am local diner where we feasted on seafood nasi goring (Indonesian fried rice) and squid in a hot sauce, with belacan kangkung (water convolvulus with dried shrimp and shrimp paste), washed down with a half litre of sharp fresh lime, all for S$30.

Other news: it looks like neither of us will get visas for India: they changed the rules three weeks ago and as Ross does not have a work permit here, and as I am only the ‘accompanying spouse’ with no official status, it’s looking tricky. Down to the High Commission first thing tomorrow. It’s a blow for Ross as it’s part of his job to go there in 10 days time! I have to say ‘I told you so’, as I suspected you had to apply from your country of residency but no-one ever listens to me…


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in which we arrive in Singapore

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Day one in Singapore.  Exploring the malls on Orchard Road – an anthropological phenomenon but I can’t say that it really turns me on.

What am I doing here? You may well ask! It seemed like a great idea at the time, when Ross was offered a 3 month interim appointment in Singapore with a Swiss pharma corporation, to be the ‘accompanying spouse’. Not something my friends would normally associate me with, although three years in Geneva should have prepared them. And me.

Arriving for the weekend made it appear like a holiday: unpack, straight out to our local mall and a yummy dinner of chilli prawns, garlic pak choi and spicy aubergine; bed. Then an early morning swim in our 50m pool (outdoor) before heading off to the world-famous Orchard Road shopping city, one of the largest and most modern collections of malls in the world, with familiar designer brands starting at the top end with Cartier, Armani, Prada, etc, then going more prosaic – Zara, M & S, Massimo Dutti, Body Shop (might as well have stayed in London if shopping is the objective). And all ludicrously expensive: I bought a swimsuit in M & S for more than double London price! Given that the average Singapore income for 80% of the population is S$6000 per month who buys this stuff? Notwithstanding the malls are teeming with people; maybe like us, looking not shopping.

Nevertheless the food courts are cheap and full. We had lunch in one of the better known, Food Republic: dim sum and a special soup where you choose your ingredients and they quickly boil them up in a delicious broth, six ingredients all for $4.00.

Then on the amazing underground, the MRT, trains every four minutes, clean, spacious, smooth, efficient, to Chinatown, where we followed a guidebook tour. In between the skyscrapers we see glimpses of what old Singapore must have looked like, 19 century Peranakan houses, with brightly painted shutters and iron grills, the skyscrapers peeking over their roofs, old men ferociously playing checkers, and smaller street food stalls and little Chinese medicine shops.

Peranakan houses

The area behind China Town – Ann Siang Hill – is now very trendy with boutique hotels and bars (left). Here we find SImon Rigby, a Queens man and Ross’s contemporary who is based here for the next couple of years, sans famille. Caught in an end-of-season monsoon downpour, we sip Earl Grey on his hotel terrace. We catch up with him later, first for drinks in the Fullerton Hotel, the grand old Post OffIce building (see below), and then in IndoChine, a rather touristy restaurant, but well situated overlooking the marina.

Fall into bed – after watching the Wales/Scotland game in a bar, as you do, and woke the next morning, no jet lag! Yay!

Ross Simon marinaAnother swim – going to swim 20 lengths every day to keep fit – before meeting more old Cambridge friends for a Japanese Bento box brunch at Moon in Sun in yet another mall. I am surprised to discover Mark and Lucie Greaves live in a house in Singapore, as do our evening dates, friends of friends from Champery and Geneva, who have an old colonial ‘black and white’ set in a luscious tropical garden, with pool and live-in rainforest style terrace. But peeking over the roof of their house is the ubiquitous tower block, albeit rather an attractive one!

Now Day 3 and I wake up and think, What am I doing here? Ross has gone to work and I am faced with setting up a daily routine, which will go something like: early morning tea; emails, online news and Facebook; more tea; swim 20 lengths; read book in sun (one hour); do ‘work’ (research for book, have brought all my mother’s letters, written weekly to her mother since 1939, with me, in my hand baggage); coffee; browse local supermarket for dinner ingredients if not going out; buy sushi for lunch, or whip up a slimming salad; more ‘work’; tea; then what????Wah! this might get a bit monotonous….